Written in Herat City,
Afghanistan
May 2005
His gaze was intense, his clear
blue eyes burning with an intense fire fueled by years of fighting. His hands
were strong and rough like sand paper, no doubt from thousands of firefights,
shooting his trusty AK-47 assault rifle. As we sat on big cushions in a small,
dark, smoky room in the back of one of his restaurants, we drank green tea and
ate bread, he spoke to me of hard living; living in the mountains with nothing
but the bare necessities; of coming down to Herat under the cloak of darkness
and in disguise; of not trusting anyone but his close circle for fear of
betrayal to the enemy; of losing over 600 soldiers, 96 in his own personal
staff. He spoke of being close to getting captured on several occasions, and
barely escaping certain death…by decapitation. But even while speaking of this,
he said it with a smile on his face, for he knew that he and his band of
fighters outlasted and defeated the “Bear” and the “Students”.
As he described events in the not
too distant past, the look in his face betrayed the glory of having won battle
after battle, of having won the war, or in his case…the wars. The Commander
talked easily and freely about skirmishes with the Soviets, about setting
ambushes 50 meters from them, about spending time after time not letting them
get more than 50 meters away. When I asked him why so close, he responded that
during that time the Soviets had airplanes and helicopters in the sky
constantly, like fire-flies, everywhere, day and night. They had to stay that
close because they knew that the Soviets wouldn’t bomb themselves, so,
ironically, there was safety being extremely close to the enemy.
The commander and his group
fought every day for 20 odd years….everyday. Every minute was a struggle to
survive, to stay ahead of the enemy, to stay alive. Every dawn brought a new
set of problems; a new challenge to overcome. Sometimes they would run out of
ammunition, sometimes the ammunition was bad, sometimes the weapons were
faulty. Other days it was plain and simple…there was no food to eat. And still
they forged ahead, led by this indomitable, fearless, formidable mujahideen.
And they fought until the day the enemy was conquered…and then what?
I asked the commander what
happened to him and his mujahideen after the Soviets left, after the fall of
the Taliban, after there was no more enemy. He said that along with his
soldiers he stayed under the command of his old commanding officer, Ismael
Khan, who once again became governor of Herat. Khan rewarded his trusted field
commander by making him head of his own security. Needless to say, he is still
“someone” in the city.
And now, after almost four years
since the defeat of the Taliban and with his boss and comrade in arms gone to
the new Afghan government in Kabul, this old jihad fighter is building and
dedicating a museum to his fallen comrades. He is building The Mujahideen
Museum in Herat. There are tanks, helicopters, artillery pieces and landmines
amongst many other things to be displayed when it opens. The best part is that
these are not replicas or training items, but the real thing. One can still see
the scorch marks in the ordnance and the bullet holes in the helicopters.
When I visited the site on
February 2005, there was a fresh blanket of snow on the ground and it was cold,
very cold. The snow covered everything, as if concealing it and keeping it
ready for action; however, the commander, now a general, told me the reason for
this museum is that he wants future generations of Afghanis to remember what
they all went through, the sacrifices his comrades made. He wants them never to
forget how they persisted against all odds and beat the mighty Red Army. He
wants to do this by showing his Afghan brothers the “tools of the trade”, the
tools of destruction.
One great example is the Soviet
Mi-24 HIND helicopter gunship sitting in the front of the museum. The HIND was
one of the most feared Soviet military machines. It caused fear with the
destruction it projected. Even my translator, upon seen it kicked it a few
times. When I asked him why he did that, he simply responded “because it killed
many Afghans, I hate it”. No one was safe nor could escape the Hind’s lethal
power. In the end, the Mujahideen downed over 300 HINDS with shoulder fired, surface
to air missiles.
I was told the museum items have
been inerted and demilitarized for safe display. The last thing the General
said to me was there will always be another fight that needs winning. I am sure
that should Afghanistan be invaded or involved in another war, the General
would take his place amongst the great leaders and take up arms once again and
defeat whomever needs defeating…along with his ‘museum’.
"Signs that say "This is not an exit" do not apply to him." ~Dos Equis~
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