Kandahar 2004

February 2004

After a month in Kabul and having completed teaching my courses I traveled to Kandahar. Arriving at the airport was a pleasant surprise. First of all, it was much warmer than Kabul and the US Army controlled the airport and had its air base there, so everywhere I looked I saw friendly U.S. troops, which is very nice after years working abroad with local military. The ride to the house took about an hour, thru wide open expanses of desert; goats and camels everywhere. It was a very nice break from Kabul’s claustrophobic confines. The road was full of types of houses I have never seen before. These dwellings looked like something out of Star Wars. They were low lying homes, as if built into the ground, with very little showing but the top third of the house, surrounded by what looked like mud walls to form a compound. Even though Kandahar is not as safe as Kabul, I felt better there, I felt right at home. The last part of the journey took me into the city proper. It was dusty, and filthy, people everywhere. Seemed like everywhere I looked everyone was carrying a good old soviet Kalishnikov rifle, the AK-47.

The first day in “Dodge City”, Kandahar, was spent visiting the various teams working around the city and taking a look at where I was to teach. Driving thru the city with Mike, one of my two teammates was certainly an experience. For one, he is strung very tight, and the driving conditions were not good at all. Mike certainly gave a new meaning to the phrase “road rage”. There were traffic jams, which are very conducive for ambushes. Needless to say we took our precautions and rolled the windows up so that no grenades could be thrown inside. We drove like mad men thru the town. Early in the morning it was very dusty and with the amount of traffic kicking up more dust our road visibility was very poor. It was a miracle of life that we didn’t run someone over, but it was damn close at times. The times spent completely stopped were tense moments for both of us. It seemed like there was an ambush waiting for us at any moment. Our eyes were constantly roaming our surroundings, looking for any signs of trouble. Every person was a potential bad guy, set on wiping out some Americans; our hands were never far from the triggers of our weapons. We had decided, as per our previous military training that if we couldn’t drive out of the shit, we would just get out and fight our way back to the house, calling for back up (rescue) from the Special Forces teams near by. Of course, that extreme measure never came, but this wouldn’t be the last time we would be in that situation.

Driving out of the city proper was a big relief. We first drove to the ASPs, the ammunition supply points that the coalition had completely obliterated. These were Taliban ASPs full of ordnance. When the air strikes came there was a lot of ordnance kicked out. I have never in my life seen so much ordnance scattered about. We literally had to walk on unexploded ordnance to get from point A to point B. While at the ASPs, we started to hear detonations, which we couldn’t tell if they were friendly or not. We then decided to high-tail it from there and back to the city. On the way Mike took me to the old Al-Qaeda house. This was located on the northern fringes of the city. The house now sits amidst a heap of rubble, having taken lots hits from bombs, since it was suspected that Bin Laden actually lived there, and he did for a while.

The teams clearing the house spend nearly a year going thru the entire place. Many booby-traps were found designed not to kill the EOD technician but to completely demolish the house and destroy all the evidence.